A First Timer's Guide to Dim Sum

Dim sum is the best brunch format humanity has produced: dozens of small dishes, served hot the moment they're ready, shared across a loud happy table with endless tea. It's also mildly intimidating the first time, because nobody hands you instructions. Consider this the instructions.

How it actually works

At traditional cart service places, servers push steaming carts between tables and you simply point at what looks good. Each dish gets stamped on a card at your table, and the stamps become your bill. At menu service spots, you check boxes on a paper sheet instead. Cart service is more fun; menu service usually means each dish is made to order. Both are correct.

Go before 11am on a weekend or expect a wait, because dim sum is a rush-hour meal by design. The wait is part of it. Bring people, since variety is the whole point and a table of four can try twelve things.

The starting lineup

Har gow is the shrimp dumpling with the translucent skin, and it's the dish kitchens are judged on. Siu mai is the open topped pork and shrimp dumpling. Char siu bao is the fluffy white bun hiding sweet barbecue pork. Cheung fun are silky wide rice noodle rolls in soy. Lo bak go is the pan fried turnip cake that converts every skeptic. Egg tarts close the show with a wobbly custard in flaky pastry.

That six dish lineup is the classic first flight. After that, follow your curiosity toward chicken feet, tripe, and the deeper cuts, which is where regulars live.

Tea rules, loosely

You'll be asked what tea you want before anything else. Jasmine or oolong are easy answers. When the pot runs empty, leave the lid ajar and someone will refill it. If a tablemate pours your tea, a light two finger tap on the table says thanks without interrupting the conversation. None of this is graded.

How to judge the room

Great dim sum houses are loud, bright, a little chaotic, and full of multigenerational tables on a Sunday morning. The har gow skin should be thin enough to see the shrimp through but strong enough not to tear when lifted. Buns should be pillowy, not dense. If the room is packed with families and the carts keep coming, you're eating well today.

Dim sum clusters where Chinese communities are, so in most cities the best spots are a short drive from downtown rather than in it. Search for the dishes by name, check which spot the weekend crowd picks, and go hungry. Seriously, go hungrier than you think.